We've covered the adjustable Fastanog in detail. It now has a smaller sibling on the shelf: the Fastanog Block Preloaded Nogging with bugle screw (M1140). Both give you a fixing point between studs without cutting timber offcuts, and both come with the screw already loaded. They suit different jobs, though, and choosing the right one saves money on a big rough-in.
The two side by side
| Fastanog Block (M1140) | Adjustable Fastanog (M1138) | |
|---|---|---|
| What it is | Preloaded nogging block | Adjustable nogging, spans 330–600mm |
| Screw | Bugle screw, preloaded | Hex self-drilling (SD) screw, preloaded |
| Frames (per listing) | Not specified | Steel and timber |
| Set-back measurer | Not listed | Built in |
| Price (each) | $4.35 | $10.56 |
| Pack | Sold each, packed in 10s | Sold each |
When the Fastanog Block is the better buy
The Block is a spot fixing point. You position it where the fitting needs to go, drive the preloaded bugle screw home and move on. At $4.35 each, it costs well under half as much as the adjustable version, which adds up quickly across a multi-unit job or a house full of fixing points.
It suits:
- Pipe brackets and clips where you just need something solid to screw into.
- Single tap or hose cock fixing points.
- High-volume rough-ins where the same small fixing repeats dozens of times.
A bugle-head screw is the type normally used into timber. The Block listing doesn't state whether it suits steel frames, so for steel framing use the adjustable Fastanog, which is listed for both. If you're unsure, ask us before you order for a steel job.
When you want the adjustable Fastanog
The adjustable Fastanog extends to span the gap between studs, from 330mm to 600mm. That covers standard 450mm and 600mm stud centres. It's the better choice when:
- The frame is steel. The hex SD screw drills straight into the stud and the listing explicitly covers steel and timber.
- Depth matters. The built-in set-back measurer keeps mixer and shower lugged elbows at a consistent depth behind the finished wall. See our 15BP vs 19BP lugged elbows guide.
- You need a full span across the stud gap rather than a single point, for example to fix several items along one line.
- Termite risk is a concern, since the adjustable Fastanog is listed as termite proof.
Using both on one job
On a typical bathroom, a sensible split is to use the adjustable Fastanog for the mixer, shower and any outlet where the finished depth has to be exact, and the Block for brackets and secondary fixing points. You get exact depth where it matters and the lower cost everywhere else.
Neither listing gives a load rating. For grab rails, wall-hung pans, in-wall cistern frames and heavy vanities, use the backing the fixture's manufacturer specifies. Our AS1428.1 grab rail guide covers accessible fixtures. If you've cut into studs to run services, our framing stiffener plates guide covers reinforcing them.
Buying
Both are in Clips and Fixings, with 5% off a box of 10 and 10% off a box of 100.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the difference between the Fastanog Block and the adjustable Fastanog?
The Block (M1140) is a preloaded nogging block with a bugle screw for spot fixing points. The adjustable Fastanog (M1138) spans 330–600mm between studs, has a hex self-drilling screw and a built-in set-back measurer, and is listed for steel and timber frames.
Can I use the Fastanog Block on steel frames?
The listing doesn't specify steel-frame use, and bugle screws are normally used into timber. For steel framing, use the adjustable Fastanog, which is listed for both steel and timber.
Which Fastanog is cheaper?
The Block is $4.35 each, against $10.56 for the adjustable version, so it's the cheaper option for repeated simple fixing points.
Can I hang a grab rail off either one?
Neither listing gives a load rating. Use the backing specified by the grab rail or fixture manufacturer for anything load-bearing.